Ready to go.

In about 2 weeks I’m off again overseas. This time with a slightly different assortment of film. The regulars inclusive - Cinestill 800T, 50D and bwXX. 

I don’t always pick a specific film for a specific scenario but sometimes. Ilford PAN F 50, perfect for bw long exposures. Depending on how much light is available. I have a few filters R25 (bw contrast enhancement), ND both 9stop and variable 9stop from HOYA. 

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A couple of new ones I thought I’d try out. IRO200 from filmneverdie and Holiday 200. How appropriate. From Hillvale. Both stores based in Melbourne Victoria. 

Technique & Approach #21 ~ Multi-exposure Layering

With the application of multi-exposures with different lens, filter and camera settings you can create some interesting results. For example image 1 (below), with a tripod, 2 frames and different shutter speeds (mixed with an ND filter) and a cable release, I was able to create this double exposure. The first exposure was of the building with some cloud in motion (yellow). ND+9, 30 seconds. The second frame, still cloud and plane, faster shutter speed without ND filter. You can even try changing lenses, if you're after 2 frames with say the building, then try not to move the camera too much when changing lenses. This can get quite a bit to manage, especially remembering your framing / compositing.

Image 1

Image 1

Image 2 (below) is simply multiple long exposures shot on a single frame. With the use of different shutter speeds, you get slight movement in the clouds (transition) and wind movement layering from the leaves in the trees. And of course light bands from the cars. Taken late afternoon. A mixture of points of interest creating a unique perspective to street photography. Use of an ND filter to control light and allow the use of long exposures during low light.

There really is not limit to creativity with regards to changing lenses, creating layers, different shutter speeds / use of filters to control exposure.

All settings listed are approximations only. I use an app for my ND shutter speeds. "ND Exposure". It's easy to use and requires a little bit of brain power.

Technique & Approach #14

Rarely I will 'edit' my photographs. I think it's only been of recent that I've been a bit more critical in analysing my work. From a technical point of view, in this case wide angle lens distortion. It would be wonderful to invest in a more complex photographic apparatus, but with a few tweaks (occasionally) you can correct any technical errors (mostly). The alternative is a tilt-shift lens. There are so many options for both film and digital, but for now, I'm sticking with what I have.

In the example below, is the original image photographed with a 28mm Prime lens. You'll notice around the edges there is a slight twist. Starting from the centre and heading outwards, the image bends. This is due to the natural distortion from the lens. The lower the number, the wider the angle of view is, and vertical lines will generally distort as you get closer to the edges. Hence why it is often recommended not to photograph close-ups of people with a wide (less than 50mm) lens as you'll get a 'fishbowl' effect. Sometimes this can work if that's is what you're aiming towards artistically, however in this case, I opted for something a little more 'optically' correct. This can be adjusted using 'lens correction' in Photoshop CC.

Most the time I enjoy using a wide lens for architecture and finding a 'line' to use as a reference point / guide for the final photograph. In this case, a wide lens is perfect. Much practice.

As a reference point, the red lines define key areas of lens distortion. Both vertically and horizontally. As you follow the vertical lines, the vertical lines in the photograph bend inwards. Horizontally there is a slight bend downwards.

As a reference point, the red lines define key areas of lens distortion. Both vertically and horizontally. As you follow the vertical lines, the vertical lines in the photograph bend inwards. Horizontally there is a slight bend downwards.

The final image with lens distortion corrected and a crop to throw out some unnecessary environmental elements which don't assist in the telling of the story behind the photograph / distractions.

If you would like to learn more, please check out my other entries on "Technique & Approach". I also offer Personal Learning Sessions, find out here